Hi, this is Ken Coul, your online auto-mechanic, I was asked to provide insight into the best spark plugs for a 5.4 Triton. Well let’s just catch up on our history, it’s nice to know some un-useful facts. For instance, the original spark plug was invented by Edmond Berger, who failed to patent it. A year after a Frenchman Named Albert Champion (Yes, Champion Spark Plugs) placed a patent on them.
He came to the US to escape mandatory conscription and settled in Flint Michigan. Albert set up with partners the Champion Spark Plug company, but in all stories of wonder and amazement, he was kicked out and cheated by his partners.
The Champion Spark Plug company still exists as we all know it, and the AC Spark Plug Company which was set up by Albert with Buick also thrives in today’s market. So, we have tow competing companies using the same inventor’s name.
OK, now back to what this article is all about, the best spark plugs for your 5.4 Triton.
- Top-Rated Spark Plugs for 5.4 Triton:
- Reviews of spark plugs for 5.4 Triton:
Top-Rated Spark Plugs for 5.4 Triton:
|Photo||Product name||Features||Pros||More information|
|1. Ford Racing M-12405-3V0 3-Valve Range Zero Spark Plug for 4.6L Engine, (Pack of 8)||These are the Ford Racing M-12405-3V0 3-Valve Range Zero Spark Plug for 4.6L Engine||• Perfect for Nitrous and Force Inducted Engines|
• Colder Heat Range
|2. Motorcraft Spark Plug SP546 Set Of 8||This is the set of 8 Motorcraft Spark Plug SP546||• Fine-wire platinum tip|
• Nickel-alloy Electrodes
|3. Champion 7989 Double Platinum Spark Plug||This is the Champion 7989 Double Platinum Spark Plug||• Platinum Tipped Center Electrode|
• Platinum Pad on Ground Electrode
|4. Autolite HT15 Platinum High Thread Spark Plug, Pack of 4||This is the 4 set of Autolite HT15 Platinum High Thread Spark Plug||• Full platinum tip |
• Nickel alloy side electrode
A spark plug is made up of a few parts, a central electrode that is isolated from the threaded metal shell by a porcelain insulator. Simple, genius and is working for over 171 years.
The best spark plugs will be made of the best materials in quality compliance fabrication environments. Since most people do not want to spend their hours learning all about spark plug materials, I have made your life easier and wrote up this guide of the 4 best value for money spark plugs you will find on the market today.
Reviews of spark plugs for 5.4 Triton:
These 16mm thread pattern spark plugs are sold as a set of 8, and they fit all 2005-2008 models. These plugs were designed for racing; they take into account the extra pressure and power required to handle NOS, supercharged engines, and turbos. The Ford Racing “0-Degree” Spark Plugs work in a one-step colder heat range is delivering much more power.
The electrode core and tip material are Copper, and the core includes a resistor.
These plugs are best suited for 5.4 Triton 2005 to 2008 GT Mustangs with the stock 3 valve 4.6L modular engine. Take note that these are for the earlier engines with 16mm “High Thread” designs they are identified by coil engineering number 3L3E.
The Motorcraft(R) Spark Plugs (A Ford company) gives you a 16mm seat and 9/16” thread. These resistors are manufactured for maximum lifespan and performance, and that is why they have a single fine-wire platinum tip for extended resistance and can deliver service intervals between 60,000 to 100,000 miles. The extended tip was developed to prevent fouling when the engine is in idle or in low speeds; it self-cleans when the engine is revved up or while driving at high speeds.
The electrodes are made of nickel alloy to prolong life and heat resistance; the platinum tip provides extra resistance to heat as well as reduced misfires.
These plugs are suitable for all 2004-2008 Ford models and are a direct OEM replacement, recommended by the Ford Motor Company. These plugs are used for conventional coil-on-plug ignition systems, and the platinum tip provides 3x the power and life expectancy than a plain copper plug.
The Champion 7989 Double Platinum Spark Plug provides x3 power and life expectancy than plain copper plugs. These plugs have tapered electrodes to create a sharper spark focus and also reduces quenching. The platinum tips and pads increase longevity as well as provide extra power. The Inner core is triple sealed, and there is a copper core used to reduce heat failure and stress.
This platinum fine wire taper cut plugs have a thread size of 15.5mm and include a resistor, their reach is 21.5mm (.846″) and have a hex size of 5/8″ (16mm). Their heat range is 12, and their longevity is set to approx. 70,000 miles.
The Autolite® Platinum Spark Plugs combine the longevity and power of a platinum tip with the resistance and strength of a nickel alloy side electrode. This combination leads to reduced gap erosion, fewer misfires, and longevity with overall better performance.
This tapered extra-long projection fine-wire platinum plug comes with a resistor, has a heat range of 40 and has a thread size of 16mm and a hex size of 9/16” (14mm)
Replacing your Spark Plugs
It’s that time of year when your car is a clunker, and you want to save a few hundred bucks by changing your own spark plugs. After all, how hard can it be to unscrew a few spark plugs?
Well, you are correct, it is not hard to an experienced mechanic, but just like any simple looking job, replacing spark plugs has its pitfalls and here is where you learn to replace your plugs like a pro.
The estimated time to replace a four-cylinder engines sparks plugs is around one hour. You will need certain tools, and I strongly suggest you make sure you have them since they will be useful for other actions too.
You will need the following tools and materials:
- Needle-nose pliers
- Socket/ratchet set
- Gap gauge
- Torque wrench
- Spark plug wire puller
- Swivel Socket
- Anti-seize compound
- Spark plugs
OK, if you don’t have these, go get them, and make sure you have a torque wrench, even though there are ways around this, its best to rely on a real live readout and not some Granny Smith method.
Step 1: Prepare the Work Surface
- Remove the plastic cover over your air cleaner assembly at the top of the engine. I strongly suggest you label all vacuum hoses you remove, this way you will return them correctly.
- Clean the top of your engine using the rag.
Step 2: Disconnecting Attachments
- Depress the locking tab (or pull up) to remove the ignition coil electrical connector Then rock the connector off the coil.
- Pull out the entire coil and boot assembly by holding down the bolt.
Step 3: Clean and Remove the Old Plug
- First blow around the old spark plug, cleaning out all and any dirt and crud that has accumulated around it. If you don’t have a pressurized air, then blow on it hard.
- Take the correct spark plug socket and place it over the plug, use an extension to make this easier and rotate the plug counter-clockwise to release it.
Step 4: Check the New Plug
- Check the new spark plug gap, make sure it is clean, and there is no corrosion and use a wire-strip gap gauge only, these will not bend the electrode off center when checking the gap.
- When you use the correct wire gauge, it will drag slightly between the electrodes.
- If the gap is too small, you can use a gap gauge to open it slightly, and it is too large just tap the side of the electrode on a hard surface. (Gently)
Step 5: Install the New Plug
- First, apply a thin coat of dielectric grease to the spark plug boot. The grease performs two actions; it makes it easier to screw out after use and also prevents misfires.
- All good quality spark plugs (those mentioned above) come with an anti-corrosive coating, so you just screw them into place with your torque wrench.
Step 6: Closing Up
Now you can return the ignition coil and reinstall the air cleaner.